Like many small Venetian hotels, the Casa Santa Maria Formosa has no sign. Inside, its home to the decor well-known to budget-loving aficionados of Venice. Away from the hustle-bustle of St. Marks Square, Venice is a city of campi, or paved squares, full of magnificent old palaces, churches and other wonders. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)
The view along the Rio Malpaga near the Campo San Barnaba is classic Venice: bridges, boats and colorful ancient buildings. The small campo, or paved square, is one of dozens hidden among the tangled streets of Venice. Each campo is the hub of its own little universe, where all the necessities of life are available, from religion to pasta. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)
In the Campo San Barnaba, the 18th century church of the same name is somewhat forlorn. Deconsecrated and emptied of its best art, it is now an exposition space, currently hosting a show on the whimsical machinery designs of Leonardo da Vinci. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)
The Bridge of Sighs, which spans the Rio di Palazzo and features windows with stone bars, leads to the Doges Palace. The view from the enclosed bridge was the last sight of Venice that convicts saw before their imprisonment. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)
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The Hotel Villa Igea fronts the Campo San Zaccaria. Just across the square is the Renaissance Church of San Zaccaria. This campo is small and dignified, less a neighborhood living room than a thoroughfare for people headed to the vaporetto stop at the waterfront promenade of Riva degli Schiavoni. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)
The Campo Santa Maria Formosa is busy with all matter of items for sale, even on a sun-baked summer day. The campo is home to one of Venices last authentic neighborhoods. Rising real estate prices have driven many residents out. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)
An artist works on a Carnival mask at the Schegge atelier in a shop along the Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa. Venice is loaded with wonderful little shops selling everything from beautiful First Communion dresses to wine in recycled plastic water bottles. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)
While waiting for their next customers, gondoliers take a break from the summer heat on the Campo Santa Maria Formosa. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)
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A couple enjoy their stroll past the Palazzo Stern, a newly opened hotel on the Grand Canal near the Ca Rezzonico Museum. When the heat or the sightseeing becomes too much, its time to retreat to a cafe or bar for a refreshing drink. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)
These shoes were made for ... gawking. A wood sculpture by Loris Marazzi salutes the great tradition of Italian shoemaking at the artist’s gallery on the Campo Santa Margherita. (Susan Spano / Los Angeles Times)