Siverio Rivas gets some dough for sangak. (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)
Sangak dough is spread on a simulated pebble surface in the oven. The bread has been traditionally baked on a bed of hot tiny river stones. (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)
Sangak fresh from the oven. (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)
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Niloo Abdollahi, left, helps a customer at the family-run restaurant. (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)