Find: Beachcomber Cafe

An exotic hothouse flower? Not likely. This one’s edible: Thinly sliced campachi and ahi are flash-seared and served with thinly sliced avocado and petite cilantro. Not on the menu but visible in abundance: little touches, courtesies and amenities that make diners happy — visits from the manager and chef, a pretty confetti of diced tropical fruit on the coconut cake, superior brewed coffee, tables with marvelous views.  (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)

The clay pot-roasted chicken with black olives, Marcona almonds and a natural jus is a hearty dish. Don’t feel like chicken? There are vegetarian options as well as a menu statement that ingredients are local and organic whenever possible.  (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)

The interior is decidedly cozy and nostalgic, with vintage photos and green vinyl booths. It’s a good place to bring your father-in-law for his birthday after a drive up the coast or through the canyon pass. He’ll get good service, a fine meal and a terrific martini.  (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)

Dinner at the Beachcomber means green vinyl booths, a warm atmosphere and remarkable views. And the food? Like Mama would’ve made if she’d cooked for a movie star.  (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)

After a day in the surf, the Beachcomber calls with its unusual drinks — for example, the hot apple pie drink, left, and the B-52. The restaurant is located at the Malibu Pier. Just past the midcentury Sport Fishing Pier sign, it’s an appealing spot for strolling, fishing, cocktailing, sunset-watching — and dining.  (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)

For casual dining, try the outside seating at the restaurant’s bar, the Malibu Pier Club. There’s also a small indoor bar with a wonderful tiki-infested party alcove (the Tonga Lei Room — actually a single booth; reserve for parties of up to 10 to 12).  (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)

Surfers catch a wave of nostalgia at the waterfront restaurant. Time it right, and guests might see surfing out the window too. Perfectly located on the pier, the Beachcomber boasts remarkable views of waves, surfers and sky.  (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)

Step outside and there’s the Malibu Pier. The Beachcomber’s owners plan a snack shack at the ocean end of the pier.  (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)