Reindeer trekking in Finland’s Lapland

Pat Neisser

The tinkle of sleigh bells echoes far across the miles of white

expanse as 20 reindeer breathe heavily in the crisp winter air.

Brightly dressed Laplanders guide these gentle creatures through

knee-deep snow, as lowlanders giggle while trying to stay in their

canoe-like sleds, or pulkkas.

Then there’s a moment of silence as everyone absorbs the brilliant

panorama. The snow-covered land stretches as far as the eye can see,

the fells, or hills, rising toward the sun. Trees edge the tundra,

each draped in its own frozen shroud. Rivers glow with an eerie

green, as ice and water fight for dominance.

This is Finnish Lapland, the land of the Sami, who have been here

forever, tending their reindeer herds, farming and trying to keep old

traditions alive.

In the distance, the sound of laughter suddenly rings out. A few

minutes more and we arrive at a Sami camp. A blazing fire welcomes

our snow-covered group. We unceremoniously pile out of our individual

sleighs, while our reindeer eagerly wait to be unhitched from each

other.

We have chosen the easiest way to trek by reindeer. Each reindeer

pulls a sled, but all are roped together and led by an expert Sami

herder. This age-old Lapp way to carry people and goods in the

wilderness is called Pororaito. Sami reindeer herders dressed in

colorful blue felt tunics and trousers embroidered in bright colors

hand us carved wooden bowls filled to the brim with steaming reindeer

stew. Mashed potatoes and lingonberry jam accompany the stew.

Is it the reindeer trek that has made us so ravenous? Or maybe

it’s the combination of altitude, brilliant blue skies, whipped-cream

snow and the exhilaration of being so far above the Arctic Circle

that has given us so much energy. Fresh-baked cookies and hot coffee

cap our first Sami feast. No one notices the cold, as we are layered

in heavy pants and parkas with blue Lapp capes covering everything.

Our reindeer safari package includes warm boots, as well.

We pass cross-country skiers skiing from hut to hut, as we careen

over the snow, back in our sleighs. Eventually, we return to Reindeer

Village (Vuitso Porkyla),where we greet more reindeer and buy our way

through a Lapp shop. This is just one way to enjoy a Lapland winter,

but you have many options. Snow-golf tournaments, icebreaker cruises

and downhill skiing are just a few of the many winter and spring

activities offered.

Somehow, we all think of Scandinavia as a summer destination,

since rumors of dark days discourage visitors from enjoying the many

winter activities. Actually, our trek began the first of March, and

days with 13 hours of sun were many. In the dark of winter, lighted

ski trails, Northern Lights and a lively spirit keep the citizens up

and at it, but since most of us prefer sun, by March, it’s perfect up

here. Sunscreen and dark glasses are a must.

In Lapland, you can ski until May, but March temperatures are

mild, action never ceases and the Finns are lively companions.

There’s nothing somber about these folk up from Helsinki for some

winter fun.

Lapland has been designated as Santa Claus Land, and you must

visit his year-round village in Lapland’s capital, Rovaniemi.This

stunning city was bombed to ashes in World War II, but designer Alvar

Aalto completely redesigned the city into the shape of reindeer

horns, and the city is a masterpiece. Santa’s Village is astir all

year with elves busily answering letters, while tame reindeer await

petting. Santa drives his reindeer, but also has a bright red

snowmobile.

You’ll wander through rooms filled with toys and brilliant Finnish

glass. Everything is for sale and can be mailed. There’s a post

office to mail cards and letters stamped Santa Claus Village. If you

come in the winter, ice carvings dot the city. If you are energetic,

join the Arctic Circle snowmobile safari that begins in Rovaniemi and

ends at the Arctic Sea in Norway. You’ll do 300 of the 550 miles by

snowmobile. You can also join a winter Olympics excursion, with

tandem skiing, mini-scooter driving, four-wheel ice races, snowmobile

“slalom race” and ice-drive testing in jeeps.

IF YOU GO

Finnair’s domestic air services will fly you to Lapland from

Helsinki. You can fly directly to Ivalo in Northern Lapland or stop

off at Rovaniemi to say hello to Santa. No skeptics allowed, because

this is the real thing. Finnair flies from U.S. Gateways nonstop to

Helsinki, offering a rare kind of wonderful service in all classes.

Finnair also offers many winter tours to Lapland and other areas of

Finland, as well as to Sweden by lovely ferries. Call Finnair at

(800) 950-5000 for air information, and for tours, call (800)

950-4768.

* PAT NEISSER is a Newport Beach resident.