Mulch, mulch and more mulch

THE GARDEN FANATIC

“Every question we answer leads on to another question.”

-- DESMOND MORRIS

“You say it’s your birthday ... “

-- THE BEATLES

An applicant recently asked me at City Hall, “If you could make

one suggestion for my garden this Memorial Day Weekend, what would it

be?” That’s a good question, I silently thought ... and because my

livelihood depends on making thoughtful landscape suggestions (and

comments), I’ll note that there are hundreds of things a dedicated

gardener could do to improve his or her garden. But none are more

important than mulching.

Loose layers of organic or inorganic materials that are placed on

the soil surface are mulches. The process of applying such materials

is called mulching. The cultural practice of mulching serves many

purposes, a two-inch thick layer insulates the soil from rapid

changes in temperature and conserves water for plantings in the

process. It competition from weeds, prevents unsightly mud from

splashing onto foliage and flowers, protects falling fruit from

injury and gives the garden a “finished” look.

Almost anything that can be composted may be used for mulching.

Leaves, cow and horse manure, straw, grass cuttings, peat moss, pine

cones and needles, coconut fiber, sawdust, wood chips, shredded bark,

buckwheat and cocoa hulls, ground corn cobs, burlap and prepared

paper are the principal materials used for mulching purposes.

Ideally, the mulch is free of weed seeds and has not been recently

sprayed with a herbicide. All organic material has a tendency to

withdraw nitrogen from the soil if not composted, and to overcome

this, for each 160 square feet of organic mulch, two inches thick,

mix in about one pound of ammonium sulfate. Consult your local

nursery person for more details.

Commercial products from Roger’s, Bandini, and Kellogg’s are

excellent products for mulching, if you don’t have the space or

inclination to setup a compost pile. Azaleas, camellias, gardenias

and other acid loving plants greatly benefit from mulch of azalea

mix, leaf mold or peat moss. The organic products can also be worked

into the soil and become available as plant food, but the roots of

camellias and azaleas should not be disturbed while working in the

amendment.

Planter mixes, cocoa mulch and redwood compost are excellent

mulching materials for ornamental and fruit trees, shrubs, roses,

vegetable beds, perennial and annual borders and rock gardens. They

serve the dual purpose of providing plant food.

Inorganic mulches are materials that do not decompose, so they are

more permanent than organic mulches. Available materials include

gravel, coarse sand and plastics. These are more expensive, but last

longer than organic mulches. The probability of introducing weed

seeds or diseases into your garden with inorganic mulches is about

zero.

Black and clear polyethylene sheeting provides excellent control

of weeds and can even be placed over existing weeds to kill them.

They also reduce water loss and warm the soil slightly. I don’t care

for plastic mulching, except for use in strawberry beds, where the

fruit can be kept clean and the runners are allowed to grow more

vigorously.

One may conclude that from the point of view of their primary

purpose, holding surface moisture, that all of the mulches mentioned

are useful. Obviously, they vary considerably in their aesthetic

desirability. Ultimately, available space, plants grown, climate and

economics will determine what type of mulch you will select.

I have also been asked another question, “What are Catharine and

you doing over the holiday weekend?” Well, we’re celebrating our

birthdays by gardening, hiking, birding and just hanging out. That’s

what Laguna is all about! See you next time.

* STEVE KAWARATANI is the owner of Landscapes by Laguna Nursery,

1540 S. Coast Highway in Laguna Beach. He is married to local writer,

Catharine Cooper, and has three cats. He can be reached at (949) 497

2438 or e-mail to [email protected].