MARY FURR -- DINING OUT

So much is happening in February, beginning with Valentine’s Day and

continuing to Mardi Gras, as celebrated in New Orleans. And the New

Orleans Cafe on Beach Boulevard and Ellis Avenue in Huntington Beach is

ready, said Kay and Adam Chamaa, who co-own the eatery with chef Kamal

Lila.

On a recent visit to the restaurant, the chill of a California winter

disappeared with the spicy heat of Shrimp and Chicken Lafayette ($15.95),

prepared in the cooking style of famed New Orleans chef Paul Prudhomme.

The thick, deboned chicken breast is blackened and rubbed with a Cajun

spice mix before it’s cooked in a red-hot skillet. Three fat, tail-on

shrimp topping the chicken are irresistibly spicy -- enough to bring

tears to your eyes. Chef Kamal will dampen the heat on request. With a

scoop of jambalaya -- a Creole hallmark of seasoned rice with bits of

tomato, green pepper and onion, this makes an excellent dish served with

soup and salad.

One of New Orleans’ best-known contributions to regional American cuisine

is red beans and rice ($9.95), served here on an overflowing platter. Red

kidney beans with slices of chicken sausage, bacon, onion and cayenne

pepper are slowly simmered until tender and served with a big blob of

steamed white rice on top. It’s mildly spicy, a real comfort dish.

Nothing says New Orleans like red beans. Famous trumpeter Louis Armstrong

loved this dish so much, he signed his letters, “Red beans and ricely

yours.”

Another great preparation is either Shrimp or Crawfish o7 Etoufeef7

(lunch $5.95; dinner $11.95), a thick spicy stew served with white rice.

o7 Etoufeef7 , French for smother, refers to food that is cooked

tightly covered with a small amount of liquid -- really smothered in good

juices.

Don’t finish without having warm bread pudding ($3.50), a big 2-inch

square of sweetened bread combined with milk, sugar, eggs, nuts and

raisins in a savory caramel sauce.

For Valentine’s Day, Kamal is planning a sweetheart menu ($20 to $30)

with a complimentary glass of house merlot and a red rose.

The Chamaas will celebrate Mardi Gras from Feb. 25 to Feb. 27, for the

first time since opening the cafe two years ago. Kamal will bake a

traditional king cake -- a king and queen will be selected each evening.

And to add authenticity to the event, the Chamaas have ordered bead

necklaces, like the ones thrown from the elaborate floats that parade

down Canal Street. Each night a different band will play, and Dixie Beer

and Voodoo Ale will flow.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments or

suggestions, call her at (562) 493-5062.

FYI

NEW ORLEANS CAFE

WHERE: 18552 Beach Blvd. near Ellis Avenue, Huntington Beach

HOURS: Lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through

Thursday, until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

MISCELLANEOUS: Costumes are suggested for Mardi Gras. Credit cards are

accepted.

CALL: 593-9080