Scratch Bar gastropub in Beverly Hills

One of Scratch Bar’s signature presentations is its Squid in a Box. The box is fashioned from fried potato, and the construction rests on a tar-black purée of charred eggplant.   (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

Chef de cuisine Joel David Miller plates Squid in a Box.  (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

When you order Smoking Goat’s Milk Cheese, the dry, crumbly fresh cheese comes to the table under a glass terrine, where it has been resting next to a pile of smoldering timothy hay.  (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

Roasted bone marrow on sourdough bread is garnished with pickled red onion and shimeji mushrooms.  (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

A whole smelt baked inside a cracker, atop pureed beet and beef marrow.   (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

Cured pig’s head, a blend of tongue and cheek, served atop beet mustard and topped with prunes and pickled onions.  (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

Desserts at Scratch Bar include this dark chocolate and cayenne candy bar.  (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

Scratch Bar serves cocktails designed by Dave Fernie of Pour Vous and makes its drinks with sake, sherry or soju.  (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

The restaurant’s furnishings are custom built, including hand-carved tabletops and leather banquettes that line the walls.   (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

Chef de cuisine Joel David Miller, left, and sous-chef Ryan Duval, second from left, work during the evening rush.   (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

A place mat made of stenciled burlap.   (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

Scratch Bar is on La Cienega’s restaurant row near eateries such as Matsuhisa, the Bazaar by José Andrés and Lawry’s the Prime Rib.  (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)