Their milky way

Eric Smith, left, and partner Pascal Destandau with their goats at Pugs Leap Farm.  (Randi Lynn Beach / For The Times)

A California cheese plate at Cyrus, where Nick Peyton, rear, is maitre d’ and partner.  (Randi Lynn Beach / For The Times)

Rinconada Dairy’s La Panza Gold, a rustic and earthy washed-rind cheese.  (Stephen Osman / LAT)

Sheep cluster at Jim and Christine Maguire’s Rinconada Dairy in Santa Margarita, one of two licensed sheep’s milk dairies in California.  (Stephen Osman / LAT)

A bûche goat cheese from Pugs Leap and a Partita sheep’s milk cheese from Andante Dairy are served at Cyrus restaurant in Healdsburg, Calif.  (Randi Lynn Beach / For The Times)