Beer of the month: Bootlegger’s Brewery Golden Chaos

The name is a play on the famous Belgian ale Gouden Carolus, and this is a very Belgian sort of golden ale, down to the Champagne-type cork seal (brewed in Fullerton, though). It pours golden amber with a considerable head, and in the Belgian manner the rich nose is yeasty and fruity, suggesting plums, primarily, with notes of apricots, pears and even apples.

On the palate it’s nicely round, bittersweet with a good effervescent tingle, leading to a long bittersweet finish, drying out at the end. It’s unfiltered — you may never see more unfiltered beer, so cloudy it’s almost opaque — and plenty strong, 8.5% alcohol.

This is a big mouthful and could stand up well with steak or even roast beef — and cheese, which goes without saying.

Quick sip

Style: Serious food beer, the beer equivalent of a big solid Burgundy.

Price: $7 to $8 for a 750-milliliter bottle.

Where to find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463, https://www.hitimewine.net; Wade’s Wines in Westlake Village, (818) 597-9463, https://www.wadeswines.com; Total Wine & More stores (Northridge, Brea, Tustin and Rancho Cucamonga), https://www.totalwine.com; and Vendome Liquors stores, vendomebeverlyhills.com.