Photos: Craft in Century City

The salad Mâche, with pluot and hazelnut.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

The roasted Ellensburg lamb sirloin is a deep, rosy pink and almost velvety in texture, and served sliced off the bone (bone included, though) in its own juices. It’s a superb cut of meat, treated with great respect.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Braised octopus as served at Craft.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Some of the lighting-design features in the main dining room.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Milk-fed veal with sherry sauce and dried fruit mostarda.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

The main dining room at Craft.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

The O’Henry peach cobbler arrives in an oval cast-iron casserole with a biscuit topping and a small dish of gorgeous vanilla ice cream.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

An individual blackberry pie has a fragile, short crust filled with luscious dark berries and is served with an enchanting wild fennel ice cream that strikes a perfect balance between sweet and herbal.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)