Ray’s and Stark Bar at LACMA

A chilled carrot soup is lit up with vaudovan (a French curry powder), a scribble of goat’s milk yogurt and fried mint leaves.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Kris Morningstar has refined and rethought the menu.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Shaved raw clams are spread over the plate like carpaccio and drizzled with citrus.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

A small drawer holds silverware at every table place at Ray’s.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Squab is wrapped in a lacy caul fat, then served sliced with fava beans, pearl onions and salsify in a reduction of Madeira with truffles.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Wild red king salmon confit is cooked rare and set off by asparagus and a black sesame sauce.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Vegetable dishes are treated with respect. It’s tempting to order two as a main course.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

The dining room of Ray’s offers a view of the Resnick Exhibition Pavilion.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

An individual cherry crostata comes with artfully folded crust.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)