The stylish exterior of Valentino Restorante in Santa Monica. (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)
Antipasto: culatello, beets and caponata, with lamb prosciutto at Valentino. (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)
Stuzzichino: Quail eggs with salmon, duck prosciutto, and melon, as served at Valentino. (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)
Owner Piero Selvaggio, left, with new chef Nicolo Chessa in the wine cellar at Valentino. (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)
Santa Barbara prawns pasta with calamari. (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)
Chocolate fettuccine with lobster ragu. (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)
The interior of the restaurant on Pico Boulevard has lost some of the flash for a quieter look. (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)
Cannoli siciliani for dessert. (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)