Rolando Maldonado waits on customers Jeff Valenzuela and Kristine Arellano on the outside patio at Lazy Ox Canteen on the edge of Little Tokyo in downtown Los Angeles. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Cancha is served at Lazy Ox Canteen. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Beef skewers are served at Lazy Ox Canteen. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Blistered shishito peppers are served at Lazy Ox Canteen. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Specials fill the chalkboard at Lazy Ox Canteen. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Hand-torn egg pasta is served at the Lazy Ox Canteen. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
A baco wrap is served at Lazy Ox Canteen. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Whole sea bream is served at Lazy Ox Canteen. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
A view of the dining room and bar area at Lazy Ox Canteen. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)